How Hemp Becomes Fabric – A Step-by-Step Explanation
The two steps to refine hemp fiber are:
- Scutching is where the fibers are beaten to remove any remaining hurd and plant matter.
- Hackling, where the fibers are pulled through metal combs to separate the long, high-quality fibers from the shorter, coarser ones.
At this point, the fibers are cleaner and more uniform, but they’re still stiff. They need to be softened before they can be spun into yarn.
Step 6: Degumming
Raw hemp fibers contain lignin and natural plant waxes, which is the reason they’re stiff and scratchy. So, they need to go through a process called degumming, which is removing the pectin, lignin, and waxes to make the fiber more flexible and comfortable.
There are a few ways to degum hemp like:
- Boiling in water or steam loosens the fibers naturally.
- Alkaline treatments break down plant compounds, making the fibers more flexible.
Some factories use eco-friendly degumming methods that avoid harsh chemicals, preserving hemp’s natural sustainability.
Step 7: Conditioning and Pre-Treatment Before Spinning
If the fibers go straight into spinning at this stage, they can be too dry, too stiff, or irregular. They won’t spin smoothly, which can lead to uneven yarn thickness, excessive breakage, and a lower-quality fabric.
To prevent this, manufacturers condition the fibers by adjusting moisture, flexibility, and alignment.
Most commonly, fibers are stored in humidity-controlled rooms to prevent them from drying out. A little natural oil or wax may also be applied to reduce friction and help fibers move smoothly through spinning machines.
At last, the fibers are passed through rollers or brushes that straighten and blend them to get an even texture before spinning.
Step 8: Spinning
There are two ways to spin hemp:
- Wet Spinning: The fiber is softened in hot water before spinning to create finer, smoother yarn.
- Dry Spinning: The fiber is spun as-is, producing a coarser, more textured yarn.
This gives you the hemp yarn that’s ready to be woven or knitted into fabric.
Step 9: Weaving and Knitting
At this stage, hemp yarn finally looks like a textile material. It can be woven into anything from lightweight, linen-like materials to heavy, canvas-like textiles.
The weave pattern determines the final feel:
- Plain weave creates a crisp, breathable fabric.
- Twill weave results in a softer, more flexible material.
- Knitted hemp is stretchier and often blended with other fibers for added softness.
But before the fabric is used, it undergoes some finishing treatments.
Step 10: Dyeing and Finishing
Hemp fabric in its natural state is beige or gray, but it absorbs dye exceptionally well. Unlike synthetic materials, hemp holds onto color without excessive fading.
This is a key part of how hemp fabric is made, as finishing treatments determine the fabric’s texture, durability, and final use.
Other than dyeing, finishing treatments improve softness, prevent shrinkage, and enhance durability. Now, the fabric is ready to be turned into clothing, home textiles, or industrial materials.
Conclusion
Unlike other natural fibers, it doesn’t start out soft, it has to be broken down, refined, and processed before it’s ready to be spun into yarn.
But that effort pays off.
What makes hemp fabric unique is how versatile it is. The same plant can be turned into coarse canvas, breathable summer clothing, or fine linen-like textiles, all depending on how you process it. Every choice, retting time, fiber selection, and spinning technique shapes the final fabric.
FAQs
How does hemp fabric compare to cotton?
Hemp fabric is stronger, more durable, and more breathable than cotton. It also softens over time without wearing out, whereas cotton tends to break down faster with repeated washing.
Why isn’t hemp fabric more common if it’s so durable and sustainable?
The biggest barriers are processing costs and technology. Most textile machines are designed for cotton, not hemp, making large-scale hemp production more expensive.
