Hands-On: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar Watches
Photos by Jake Witkin
Amidst the springtime buzz in the world of horology, it’s easy to forget that Watches & Wonders isn’t just Geneva’s biggest marketing bonanza of the year but also where the world goes to buy watches. Ask any of the hundreds, nay, thousands of retailers who visit the Palexpo about the most compelling new releases, and they’re likely to mention pieces that can be acquired, sold, and restocked reliably. Meanwhile, collectors (and yes, media outlets) fawn over incomparable achievements of watchmaking, focusing on the superlatives: the world’s thinnest, the world’s first, the world’s only. Sometimes, the Venn diagram of watches that collectors and retailers love overlaps, with each side coming together to appreciate the engineering and aesthetics that draw us to watches in the first place. Parmigiani Fleurier’s new addition to its Toric collection, revealed last week in Geneva, is one such piece. With last year’s familiar dial texture and format taking on new appearances in both color and layout, the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar watches do not disappoint, even after their roaring debut at last year’s event.
The dials of the new Toric Perpetual Calendars, especially the Morning Blue, are particularly vibrant. Seen up close, the shade manages to be somehow apart from the glut of Tiffany-blues that have inundated the scene. It’s got a brightness that makes it appear almost backlit, and this lightness is assisted by the dynamic surfaces at play. With smooth, high-polish elements that live at the opposite end of the visual spectrum from the dial’s grained texture, it’s a pretty significant departure from 2024’s “Grey Celadon.” Really a sage green, the Toric’s introductory small-seconds model passes on a few design similarities like a recessed dial edge delineated by a metallic ring and the Toric’s notable knurled bezel. However, it’s the color of the Morning Blue that’s just so much more profound. Like last year, the gold dial is present, but this time it’s called Golden Hour. It’s a lighter shade than 2024’s umber Chronograph Rattrapante version but darker than the existing small-seconds variant.
Strap on one of the Toric Perpetual Calendars and something becomes clear: even at just over 40mm, it’s quite substantial yet somehow not top-heavy. This is thanks to the relatively slim sub-11mm height, as well as the form of the nubuck alligator strap that helps keep things balanced. What’s a little unbalanced, however, is the crown. Specifically, its placement just off-center from the top and bottom of the case makes for a bit of an odd sensation, although such quirks must be forgiven as the complexity of the manual wind PF733 caliber movement demands it be located here. It’s not enough to interfere with comfort, but when manipulating the crown, it’s noticeable.
As implied by the brand’s imagery at launch, the Toric’s movement side is arguably as splendid as the dial. Not easy to do, Parmigiani has managed to stick to a determined color-scheme, utilizing not just elegant decoration but big spanning bridges to ensure the Toric’s reverse is ready for a closeup just the same as the “business end.” Here, the Côtes de Fleurier pattern captures most of the attention, but even the large exposed gears are captivating in their own right, with careful engraving that implies motion. Seen above, it’s clear just from looking at the direction of the engraved curves which way the gears turn.
As pretty as the new Torics are, they follow in the footsteps of last year’s versions. While not as limited as the Chronograph Rattrapante’s 30-piece run, the new Perpetual Calendars hit the market with just 50 pieces of each dial color. But again, this isn’t a watch concerned foremost with commercial viability. It’s almost watchmaking for watchmaking’s sake. Get a few genius watchmakers together in a room, give them enough time and resources along with a mandate to make something that’s outwardly beautiful and inwardly unimpeachable, and it’s likely the Toric Perpetual Calendar is what’ll come out. As uncertainty grips markets worldwide, there’s a small comfort in knowing that even though most of us are unlikely to ever sport the Toric Perpetual Calendar, sometimes, the appreciation of a beautiful object for its own sake is enough to bring a smile to your face. The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar Golden Hour in rose gold at $91,900 USD, and the Toric Perpetual Calendar Morning Blue in platinum is priced at $99,400 USD. For more information, please visit the Parmigiani Fleurier website.
