Hands-On: Urwerk UR-230 Polaris Watch
Simply put, Urwerk doesn’t make “normal” watches. Even the brand’s most conservative designs are far from being conventional. That said, Urwerk’s signature sci-fi aesthetic typically embraces a rather dark color palette, and seldom does white ever appear on anything other than a printed numeral or a small line of text. However, among the more striking releases from the Geneva-based brand that debuted last year towards the very end of 2024 is the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris, which brings stormtrooper vibes and an updated case design to this definitely modern and technology-packed collection.
Within Urwerk’s contemporary lineup, the UR-230 is the most recent expression of the brand’s UR-200 series, which first appeared in 2007 and has steadily evolved throughout the years. Subsequent iterations of the UR-200 platform included the UR-210 and the UR-220, with the most recent evolution being the UR-230 that originally debuted as the UR-230 “Eagle” in 2023. As mentioned in our original news article about the UR-230 Polaris, each generation of the UR-200 series has included multiple variations that take the collection in different aesthetic directions, although the latest Polaris version isn’t just a new colorway of the inaugural model from 2023. Instead, the UR-230 Polaris iterates upon the case architecture of its predecessor, and it omits the hinged lid of the UR-230 “Eagle” in favor of an obstructed front sapphire crystal like the various UR-210 and UR-220 models.
While the hinged lid of the original UR-230 “Eagle” was a rather unique and novel feature that kept the visual emphasis on the relevant elements of its display, I think most people would prefer to see the entirety of the UR-230’s intricate internal mechanics, and this ultimately provides the UR-230 Polaris a more visually impressive overall appearance. Additionally, the hinged lid was also the detail that most significantly separated the inaugural UR-230 from previous renditions of the brand’s UR-200 platform, and the case architecture of the UR-230 Polaris represents a return to the original blueprint of the series. With that in mind, the crisp white and black colorway of the model offers a distinct aesthetic compared to the dark and brooding hues that typically characterize Urwerk’s watches, and despite having a familiar silhouette and case architecture, the UR-230 Polaris still manages to feel fresh and unique when compared to everything else that Urwerk has previously put forward.
Measuring 44.81mm in diameter by 18.38mm thick and 53.55mm in the lug-to-lug direction, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris is a properly sizable creation; however, nothing about this futuristic statement piece is intended to be understated, and its bold proportions are ultimately needed to house its signature orbiting satellite display system. The case of the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris features a bi-material construction, with the black sections rendered in DLC-coated titanium and the white upper case crafted from a ceramic-based composite that is reinforced with fiberglass. Created in collaboration with Urwerk, the white ceramic-based composite is similar to what is used by the aerospace and medical industries, and it consists of thin sheets of ceramic and woven fiberglass that are suspended inside a hard polymer matrix.
Unlike pure ceramic, which can crack or shatter when it receives a strong enough impact, the embedded fiberglass sheets help to strengthen Urwerk’s ceramic-based composite (similar to the role of carbon fibers in carbon-based composites), and they also provide the material with a subtle layered structure instead of displaying a solid uniform hue like regular ceramic. The layers of woven glass fibers are characterized by a pale silver color, which offers a faint shimmering quality that contrasts against the otherwise matte white appearance of the case material. Once machined and finished into its final shape, the ceramic-based composite displays a densely-packed layered structure that could best be described as an all-white version of carbon fiber, and it offers a noticeably more dynamic appearance than if the same component was simply crafted from pure white ceramic.
Just like other models from the UR-200 series, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris features its winding crown on the 12 o’clock side of its case, while a dramatically curved sapphire crystal is fitted to the top of the watch to protect the various elements of its display. Water resistance for the model comes in at a standard 30 meters to guard against incidental contact, and the reverse side of the UR-230 Polaris is fitted with a black DLC-coated titanium caseback that is set with a small sapphire window to display the pair of turbines that govern its rotor. Also placed on the caseback are two small knobs that are used to adjust the automatic winding functionality of the movement, with one acting as an on/off switch for the rotor, and the other serving as an adjustment knob for the “air brake” mechanism that dictates the winding efficiency of the movement by regulating the amount of airflow that passes through the two turbines that sit on the lower half of its display.
The on/off knob on the caseback completely disengages the rotor to help prevent damage during active use, while the secondary knob for the “air brake” mechanism allows users to fine-tune the self-winding abilities of the watch to better correspond with their individual lifestyle. When the “air brake” switch is fully open, a pair of cone-shaped turbines sits entirely visible on the lower half of the display, directly below the carousel-mounted satellite system. However, as you turn the knob to the closed position, a pair of bright red covers slide over the turbines to restrict the amount of air that can pass through them. Decreasing the amount of airflow restricts the winding efficiency of the movement in order to make it better suited for individuals with highly active lifestyles, and increasing the amount of airflow has the opposite effect for those who might spend the majority of their day sitting at a desk.
Similar to both the UR-210 and UR-220 models, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris uses a satellite-style retrograde display system to track the time, and its three-pronged carousel slowly rotates throughout the day, with the value for the current hour appearing within the center of its skeletonized minute hand. The arrow-shaped tip of the minute hand points to its corresponding value against an arc-shaped minute track, and this unique three-dimensional display serves as the foundation for a significant portion of Urwerk’s modern catalog. Meanwhile, two additional indicators appear at the upper corners, with each linked to one of the adjustment knobs on the caseback. The indicator on the upper right-hand side consists of a small hand that switches between green and red dots to offer a visual representation of whether or not the rotor is engaged, and the other indicator on the upper left-hand corner tracks how much airflow is allowed to pass through the turbines that govern the winding efficiency of its movement.
Powering the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris is the brand’s Caliber UR-7.30 automatic movement, which can also be found inside the original UR-230 “Eagle” from 2023. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, the 50-jewel Cal. UR-7.30 is based upon a classic Swiss lever escapement, although the rest of the movement is a thoroughly tech-focused creation that is unlike anything you will find in other brands’ catalogs. While many Urwerk watches are centered around a satellite-style retrograde display, the unique turbine system of the Cal. UR-7.30 immediately separates itself from the movements that are used to power models from the brand’s less complex UR-100 series. Additionally, since the UR-230 Polaris doesn’t have a traditional dial, the components of the movement function as the various elements of its display, and they showcase a dark anthracite gray finish punctuated by small white and red accents.
Since the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris doesn’t have traditional lugs, its white rubber strap is mounted directly to its case with a pair of hinges that allow it to comfortably wrap around the corners of the wrist. Additionally, since the strap has a fairly wide and thick structure, Urwerk has hollowed out the internal surfaces of the rubber strap in the areas that sit closest to the case to further improve its flexibility and on-wrist comfort. The concave internal surfaces decrease the amount of rubber, which in turn allows the strap to bend more easily, and they also minimize the amount of material that comes into contact with the wearer’s wrist. Rather than using a traditional pin-buckle or folding clasp, the two ends of the strap secure with a velcro-style closure, and while some collectors are categorically opposed to velcro straps on high-end watches, the white rubber strap creates a highly cohesive appearance, and it ultimately feels like an entirely appropriate choice for this ultra-modern timepiece.
Given that Urwerk has a total output of only a couple hundred watches per year, many of its models are produced in extremely small numbers, and the UR-230 Polaris will be offered as a limited edition of just 35 examples. With that in mind, despite being the first model from the brand to showcase this white ceramic-based composite material, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris is actually a solid chunk less expensive than its UR-230 “Eagle” predecessor, and it has an official retail price of 150,000 CHF (approximately $175,000 USD, at the time of writing). While white-colored watches can often be a bit of a polarizing aesthetic among the collecting community, I personally find the white-and-black stormtrooper colorway to work exceptionally well with the UR-230’s definitively modern space-age design, and it very well might be my personal favorite among all of the models from the brand’s greater UR-200 series. For more information, please visit the Urwerk website.
