Hands-On: Zenith G.F.J. Watch | aBlogtoWatch
Photos by Ed Rhee and Jake Witkin
Among the novelties unveiled this year at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 is the Zenith G.F.J., which celebrates the Swiss brand’s 160th anniversary by reviving its legendary Caliber 135 movement. Originally produced during the golden era of mechanical timekeeping between 1949 and 1962, the Zenith Caliber 135 holds the distinction of being the most awarded movement of all time. Its track record stands with a whopping 235 chronometry prizes, including five first-place finishes between 1950 and 1954.
To mark the revival of its celebrated Caliber 135 movement, Zenith has created a new 160-piece limited edition known as the G.F.J. (ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200), named after the initials of the company’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. However, rather than being a direct resurrection of this historic award-winning movement, the Caliber 135 that powers the new Zenith G.F.J. incorporates a number of updates and mechanical enhancements that bring this celebrated design into the modern era.
As mentioned in our original news article about the launch of the Zenith G.F.J., the brand’s Caliber 135 movement was designed for maximum precision, and was specifically created to win observatory chronometry competitions. Consequently, the award-winning movement was produced in two variations (Cal. 135 and Cal. 135-O). The latter was the non-commercial version, which was specifically regulated by Zenith’s top watchmakers to excel at the chronometry trials to which it was submitted.
With that in mind, the Zenith G.F.J. isn’t the first time that the famous Caliber 135 movement has made a reappearance. Back in 2022, we saw the Cal. 135 reemerge inside a 10-piece limited edition that was produced in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips auction house. While the 10-piece limited edition from 2022 featured an actual vintage movement, the new G.F.J. marks the Caliber 135’s formal return to production. It has been upgraded with new finishing, and several mechanical upgrades that make it better suited for everyday wear and use inside a contemporary wristwatch.
The updated Caliber 135 movement powering the Zenith G.F.J. follows the same architecture as its vintage predecessor. It comes complete with an oversized balance wheel for optimum precision, and a double arrow-shaped regulator to facilitate precise adjustment. Although the new Cal. 135 movement still features a manual-wind design and runs at a frequency of 18,000vph (2.5 Hz), the tooth geometry of the gear train has been optimized to improve the movement’s efficiency, and its power reserve has been significantly extended from 40 to 72 hours.
Other upgrades to the new 22-jewel Zenith Caliber 135 include the added functionality of a hacking-seconds mechanism, and it also incorporates spring-mounted jewel shock absorbers to help protect the balance staff from impacts. The plates and bridges of the updated Cal. 135 are adorned with a “brick” guilloché pattern as a nod to the red and white painted bricks on the facade of Zenith’s manufacturing facilities. The movement also boasts an impressive COSC-certified accuracy rating of -2/+2 seconds per day.
To house its reimagined Caliber 135 movement, the Zenith G.F.J. features a case crafted from solid 950 platinum, which provides the model with the impressive heft characteristic of timepieces made from this highly lustrous noble metal. Measuring 39mm in diameter by 10.5mm thick with an overall lug-to-lug profile of 45.75mm, the case of the G.F.J. is finished with high-polished surfaces set against linear brushing on its sides, and it offers a fairly traditional and timeless appearance with a stepped bezel and matching stepped lugs.
A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial of the Zenith G.F.J., while a screw-on display caseback closes up the reverse side of the watch. Extending from the 3 o’clock side of the case is a signed winding crown that is engraved with the G.F.J. initials. Water resistance for the Zenith G.F.J. comes in at 50 meters to protect against daily contact. Despite adhering to a fairly simple and traditional design, the platinum case still manages to steal some of the attention away from the legendary movement and visually striking dial.
The revived Cal. 135 movement is clearly the focal point of the Zenith G.F.J., although its dial is certainly another one of its standout features. Comprised of three main sections, the central portion of the dial is crafted from a slice of lapis lazuli, while the running seconds sub-dial is rendered in blue mother-of-pearl. Surrounding the outer perimeter is a blue metal ring that is adorned with a brick guilloché pattern to echo the finishing on the movement. The hands and hour markers on the G.F.J. are all crafted from white gold, and its minute track is formed by 40 white gold beads that are hand-applied to the surface of the dial between the faceted white gold indices.
In its standard configuration, the Zenith G.F.J. comes as a set with three different leather straps, including options in dark blue alligator, black calfskin, and blue “Saffiano” leather. Completing the straps is a pin-buckle crafted from 950 platinum to match the case. The outer section of the buckle is engraved with the G.F.J. initials surrounded by the same brick guilloché pattern that adorns both the dial and movement of the watch. Upon special request, the Zenith G.F.J. can also be purchased with a matching seven-row platinum bracelet, which features a brick motif embossed into its center links and a hidden butterfly-style folding clasp.
Zenith is typically most closely associated with high-frequency chronographs and sporty or heritage-inspired designs. This makes the G.F.J. truly stand out among its offerings, simply because it is everything that we don’t normally expect from the brand. As a time-only dress watch crafted from precious materials and powered by a manual-wind, low-frequency movement, the Zenith G.F.J. is the total opposite of the brand’s legendary El Primero. However, it also represents an equally compelling part of the brand’s rich and storied history, and I personally love that Zenith chose to celebrate its 160th anniversary by reminding us of its record-setting chronometry achievements in a truly refined and resplendent manner.
To commemorate the brand’s 160th anniversary, the Zenith G.F.J. (ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200) will be produced as a limited edition of 160 examples. The model will have an official retail price of $49,900 USD, with the matching platinum bracelet sold separately as an optional purchase. While this is undeniably quite a lot of money, it hardly seems all that outrageous for a solid platinum watch with a legendary award-winning caliber, which also features an intricate dial crafted from lapis, white gold, and mother-of-pearl. When experienced in the metal, the Zenith G.F.J. is an objectively impressive creation, and it feels like a truly appropriate way for the famous Swiss manufacturer to celebrate 160 years of watchmaking history. For more information, please visit the Zenith watches website.
