Conifers are famously low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean they’re maintenance-free.
Every healthy tree, no matter how robust, benefits from a bit of attention from the gardener.
Unlike deciduous trees such as cherries or apples that often require annual pruning, most conifers don’t need to be pruned at all.
But there will probably come a time in the plant’s life where pruning is necessary.
Perhaps to remove dead or pest-infested branches, shape a young weeping or cascading type, or to prevent the plant from encroaching on walls, fences, power lines, or other trees.
In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know to prune conifers properly, including:
If you’re thinking about pruning bonsai or topiary, those are different topics altogether.
This guide will go over pruning, not the type of shaping required to create topiaries or bonsai. You can learn more about pruning bonsai here.
When to Prune
For most conifers, early spring is the best time to prune, just before new growth starts.
You can also prune in late fall or during a mild winter, as long as the wood isn’t frozen and temperatures stay above freezing for at least a week after you make your cuts.
Never prune during the active growing season unless it’s absolutely necessary for the tree’s health.
Active growth is usually easy to spot as it’s a different color from the older foliage. On spruce trees, it appears as soft, light green tips. On western cedars, you might see purple-tinted scales.
Pruning during this period can cause the bark to split rather than cut cleanly, leaving the tree vulnerable to pests and disease.
The right tool for the job depends on where and what you’ll be pruning. For larger branches within reach, use a hand saw that cuts on the pull stroke.
For smaller branches – anything thinner than a pinky – bypass pruners are ideal. Don’t use anvil pruners as they tend to smash woody material rather than cutting clean through.
If you need to reach higher, a pole saw is a good option. Again, go for one that cuts on the pull stroke.
Avoid hedge trimmers, chainsaws, and axes. These tools can cause unnecessary damage and lack the precision needed for clean cuts.
Before you begin, disinfect your tools with a 10 percent bleach solution, isopropyl alcohol, or hot soapy water. This helps prevent the spread of disease.
Pruning Young Conifers
The best time to shape a young conifer is right after planting. Step back and look at the overall structure.
Does the tree have two central leaders? Is it heavier or more dense on one side? Are branches growing at odd angles?
Don’t try to turn one growth habit into another. If you want a pyramidal shape, start with a tree that naturally grows that way. Forcing a round or mounded species into a pyramidal shape just creates more work later.
While you can train most small pines, spruces, and firs into various forms including Christmas tree shapes, it’s best to work with the tree’s natural shape rather than against it.
If there are two central leaders, pick one and shorten the other by about a foot, cutting just above a node or shoot. This redirects growth away from competing with the main trunk.
Next, remove any branches that cross, touch, or make the crown feel too dense.
You should also cut away any tight crotches – branches that meet the trunk at a narrow “V” angle instead of a “U” shape.
These form weak points that can split later. Look for wrinkled or compressed bark where two limbs are pushing into each other.
Aim to prune no more than a quarter of the branches after planting. This helps balance the smaller root system with the above-ground growth.
If one side looks sparse, remove a few branches from the opposite side to even things out. The goal is to support structural balance without forcing an unnatural shape.
Always cut just above a node or alongside the branch collar, which is the slightly raised area where a branch meets the trunk. Avoid cutting into the collar itself.
There’s no need to seal cuts with paint or any other product. The tree will naturally protect itself by sealing the wound with sap.
Established Conifers
Before pruning an established conifer, it’s essential to understand how that species grows.
Some, like junipers, arborvitae, and western red cedars, add growth on the outside of the canopy and the shaded interior dies.
If you cut back into that dead interior, the branch won’t regrow and you’ll end up with a permanent bald spot.
For these species, only prune within the “live zone,” the outer area with green, actively growing tips.
Make your cuts just in front of a green, healthy shoot or branch, never behind one. That means cutting between the tip and near the live, green shoot.
While this rule applies to all conifers, not all species develop extensive dead interior wood.
Pines, firs, and some spruces are more open in structure, which allows light into the center and keeps the inner branches alive longer.
The lower limbs may still thin or die from shading, but the whole interior doesn’t die back like it does in junipers or arborvitae.
With these trees, avoid cutting into bare sections of the branch. Imagine a big eastern white pine: its needles grow in clusters with stretches of bare wood between them.
If you cut into the bare wood between the clusters of needles you’ll be left with a stump. Always cut just in front of live needles.
Some species shouldn’t be pruned at all when they are mature unless it’s absolutely necessary.
Douglas firs (Pseudotsuga menziesii), for example, have fragile bark that splits easily and they don’t produce much resin where the cuts are made.
That makes them highly vulnerable to disease. Avoid cutting any branches over two inches in diameter on older Douglas firs and other similar species.
The exception is dead wood. You can remove that from any tree at any time. It won’t regrow, and removing it improves airflow and reduces risk of pests or disease.
If you’re unsure whether a branch is dead, scrape the bark. If there’s no green tissue underneath, it’s dead and can go.
Other conifers, such as spruce and pine, handle pruning better than most.
They have tougher bark that resists cracking and they produce plenty of resin at cuts, which helps seal the wound and protect against invaders like fungi and borers.
Give Them the Cut
Beyond providing some shape and removing troublesome branches, you don’t usually have to do much trimming of your conifers.
But when you do need to make a cut, doing it at the right time, with the right tools, and in the right way is crucial for the health of your plant.
Let us know what kind of plant you’re growing and what kind of pruning you’re doing in the comments section below. We love to share details and advice with our readers.
And for more information about growing conifers, check out these guides next:
