I'm older than 50, and when i was much younger, people used to unversally say "don't use synthetic" because it caused leaks. I have a 20yr old Tacoma w/ 243k miles (391,070km) and it runs like new – I've ALWAYS used synthetic 0W-30 (not the 5W-30 it's supposed to use). Runs.Like.New.
I've tore down engines that used just conventional motor oil and synthetic motor oil. Synthetic lubed engines were cleaner, and much better shape. Conventional oil will sludge up a engine unless your dumping under 4000 miles.
the manufacturer notes on my piston rings stated the same thing, use mineral based oil for break in otherwise the rings wont seat during the break in period
Amen. You did your own "research." That's not really allowed because you'll discover the hidden truth. You're saving us thousands of dollars down the road. THANKS !
That's a well researched presentation, use conventional oil on 50 hr break-in period. Perhaps Kohler uses a different type of rings or cylinder sleeve metal as compared to newly automotive engines. So as you say, follow the OEM specs for oil type, stop and read for best results.
My 2015' 7.25 hp briggs and stratton lawnmower engine came with a quart of standard oil for breakin then switched to synthetic and clean engine when needed with seafoam before oil change, still runs like a champ with no smoke.
chevy corvette is the first gm car ever recommended a name brand product. mobil 1. and it is put in from the factory brand new. cadillac was next. cadillac northstar under full throttle would micro weld top compression ring with regular oil. with mobil 1, not so. so i believe what I saw with my own eyes.
What Kohler should put in their manual is after running the engine for a week retorque the head bolts…. This way they would have the best engine on the market…
After break in period of 4 qts 5w20 + 1 qt. Slick 50 I began using Mobile 1 FS 5W50 in my 2008 Honda Ridgeline RTL as I did my 1993 John Deere 265 lawn tractor. Both are still running like new but I use 5w20 now.I also use Amoco hi test white gas in both. Needless to say the Germans got this right.
I might have gotten a new Toyota Yaris that was junk but after driving it from Florida to cali twice on my 3rd trip I changed to full synthetic and by the time I got to cali you could hear the valves tapping
The reason why MR. is because if you remember in the 1960 VW bogus comes with a 1000cc engine that if you use regular engine oil will eats the aluminum where the crankshaft seat… like tractors and small Long mowers engines !!!! So in those engines you need to use non detergent engine oils. Period … Mobil 1 , Castrol , Valvoline, Pensoil , Purple Oil, Amsoil, and many other brands they go to a lab the engineers to determined wish oil will be the best for the engine best performance and durability for the engine! Is this is not true why like the manufacture put a big oil engine logo in high performance engine if they don’t use the brand and specifications oil in this engine the warranty will be void …
I have always used non synthetic oil in my 21 hp Kohler Command internal combustion engine. I change the oil and oil filter every 100 hours on my Husqvarna YHT21K46 riding lawnmower. It has over 1,500 hours on the internal combustion engine. Still runs great. The only problem I’ve ever had with the Kohler 21hp vertical engine. After I adjusted the valve backlash after 50 hours on the engine. The Valve Rocker arm to top of valve backlash clearance was over 15,000 out of specification . The original valve cover gasket ended up leaking oil. I purchased a new valve cover gasket. Torqued the valve cover bolts to 65 inch pounds as directed by the service manual. First I ran a tap through the head and a die over the bolts. The new valves cover gasket ended up leaking right away. So I purchased a 3/16” thick 12” x 12” cork tile from Hobby Lobby for around $5.00. I Made my own valve cover gasket. No more oil leaks. The original valve cover gasket is around 1/16” thick. When torquing to specifications the gasket split of course on the bottom. I even tried to use high temperature silicone the black kind. Waited for it to lightly set. Lightly tightened the valve cover bolts. So not to squeeze the silicone. After 24 hours tightened the valve cover bolts just enough not to over squeeze the black silicone. It leaked oil right away. What a mess and a pain in the ass removing all the cured black silicone. It is very easy to make your own valve cover gasket. Except for where the new valve cover gasket split apart. It was still in good enough shape to trace it out on the 3/16” cork tile. Definitely use a gasket punch for the valve cover bolt holes. I used a new straight edge razor to cut out the rest of the valve cover gasket after I punched the holes using a gasket hole punch set. I you cut out the gasket and then punch out the bolt holes. There is a chance you will split the cork. I tightened the home made valve cover gasket to 65 inch pounds. According to bolt tightening pattern. I also made 3 more valve cover gaskets from the leftover cork. Why Kohler didn’t use oil resistant neoprene rubber to manufacture the valve cover gasket or a thicker cork gasket. Is beyond reasoning to me. If the cork panel I purchased didn’t work out. My next purchase was going to be a 12”x12” x 1/8” thick piece of oil resistant neoprene rubber. To make a new valve cover gasket.
Oil this oil that just keep CLEAN OIL in anything. When it turns black that's fine carbon molecules ( just like sand just harder) the type or brand don't even matter just keep it brown or brownish) 98 silverado 350 325k miles stile had hone marks in cylinder walls. 3,500 miles oil changes when that motor started turning oil black.
Love reading my manuals and getting to know your vehicle or machine as much as you can, I’ll surprise people with my knowledge on certain machines. Vehicles that have 7500 mile oil interval changes are only for vehicle that never see a stop light and are on freeway but if you stop to get grocery’s divide oil interval by half, it says it right in the manual but people don’t do it and sludge there engines up .
He's right. But not all synthetic oils are the same. Castrol Edge is good (lots of rinse, lots of cleaner) or Valvoline R+P, (slooooooow clever GDI clean.) Both are good. Type — Santa Fe Sport oil burning fix — and look at the maintenance section.
In the 1970s older men told me to use penzoil detergent oil in engines with high mileage and quaker state in new engines. Total BS every engine I put that trash it blew up. Burnt up or plugged oil ports .those two oils are poison to any engine. Mobil and Castrol are top notch.
I dont have a problem with synthetic oil. However just to share i had a klr650 motorcycle bought new. I started tresting it to full synthetic oil. I noticed it was using oil…went to w local trusted bokeechsnic he said jist use belray thumper mineral oil. It stopped using oil. Was alot cheaper as an addrd bonus. Just sharing.
This is the MTD lawn tractor I had delivered from Amazon. https://youtu.be/cfYo7eo0l9Q
I've NEVER had ANY problems using synthetic motor oils for nearly 50 Years!
"For older cars, select Mineral Oil. For modern cars and Formula One cars, please select Synthetic Oil."
Thank you for sharing. This was very helpful information
.
i have a Z125s Kubota with 25 hp Kohler. I started using Mobil 1 10w – 30 synthetic with less than 50 hours with no problems.
It’s not for air cooled tractors
All 0w-20 oils are synthetic. The lesson learned is follow manufacturer guides.
Synthetic oil is the big scam…..the money maker.
I only use mobile or redline
Mobile 1 is the best I use it in everything for 50yrs
Thank you for making a useful and super beneficial video!!!
I'm older than 50, and when i was much younger, people used to unversally say "don't use synthetic" because it caused leaks. I have a 20yr old Tacoma w/ 243k miles (391,070km) and it runs like new – I've ALWAYS used synthetic 0W-30 (not the 5W-30 it's supposed to use). Runs.Like.New.
Use dino and change the oil more frequently but always follow manufacturers suggestions.
I've tore down engines that used just conventional motor oil and synthetic motor oil. Synthetic lubed engines were cleaner, and much better shape. Conventional oil will sludge up a engine unless your dumping under 4000 miles.
the manufacturer notes on my piston rings stated the same thing, use mineral based oil for break in otherwise the rings wont seat during the break in period
Amen. You did your own "research." That's not really allowed because you'll discover the hidden truth. You're saving us thousands of dollars down the road. THANKS !
That's a well researched presentation, use conventional oil on 50 hr break-in period. Perhaps Kohler uses a different type of rings or cylinder sleeve metal as compared to newly automotive engines. So as you say, follow the OEM specs for oil type, stop and read for best results.
I ve used blended oils for decades and no issues
I don’t use any oil, I just put Slick-50 in everything.
All I ever find at stores is semi or full synthetic. It's like they are trying to remove standard oil all together.
I only use synthetic
on my shit 
especially my diesels
i used fully synthetic on my ego lawn mower…..no issues….been running for 15 years…..
I use synthetic in everything too.
I’ve run Mobile 1 or Amsoil for 60+ years never had any problems
My 2015' 7.25 hp briggs and stratton lawnmower engine came with a quart of standard oil for breakin then switched to synthetic and clean engine when needed with seafoam before oil change, still runs like a champ with no smoke.
You should never use synthetic oil during the breakin period . Pretty common knowledge.
chevy corvette is the first gm car ever recommended a name brand product. mobil 1. and it is put in from the factory brand new. cadillac was next. cadillac northstar under full throttle would micro weld top compression ring with regular oil. with mobil 1, not so. so i believe what I saw with my own eyes.
I've run Mobile 1 in all my Porsches since 1980 to current with no problem
What Kohler should put in their manual is after running the engine for a week retorque the head bolts….
This way they would have the best engine on the market…
Change more often. Quantity trumps quality
I have a hard time finding oil.
Hey synthetic oil is refined from our oil sands in Alberta
After break in period of 4 qts 5w20 + 1 qt. Slick 50 I began using Mobile 1 FS 5W50 in my 2008 Honda Ridgeline RTL as I did my 1993 John Deere 265 lawn tractor. Both are still running like new but I use 5w20 now.I also use Amoco hi test white gas in both. Needless to say the Germans got this right.
I might have gotten a new Toyota Yaris that was junk but after driving it from Florida to cali twice on my 3rd trip I changed to full synthetic and by the time I got to cali you could hear the valves tapping
My Generac generator specified a traditional oil for a 50 hour break in before going to synthetic … probably pretty common on small engines.
The reason why MR. is because if you remember in the 1960 VW bogus comes with a 1000cc engine that if you use regular engine oil will eats the aluminum where the crankshaft seat… like tractors and small Long mowers engines !!!! So in those engines you need to use non detergent engine oils. Period … Mobil 1 , Castrol , Valvoline, Pensoil , Purple Oil, Amsoil, and many other brands they go to a lab
the engineers to determined wish oil will be the best for the engine best performance and durability for the engine! Is this is not true why like the manufacture put a big oil engine logo in high performance engine if they don’t use the brand and specifications oil in this engine the warranty will be void …
I have always used non synthetic oil in my 21 hp Kohler Command internal combustion engine. I change the oil and oil filter every 100 hours on my Husqvarna YHT21K46 riding lawnmower. It has over 1,500 hours on the internal combustion engine. Still runs great. The only problem I’ve ever had with the Kohler 21hp vertical engine. After I adjusted the valve backlash after 50 hours on the engine. The Valve Rocker arm to top of valve backlash clearance was over 15,000 out of specification . The original valve cover gasket ended up leaking oil. I purchased a new valve cover gasket. Torqued the valve cover bolts to 65 inch pounds as directed by the service manual. First I ran a tap through the head and a die over the bolts. The new valves cover gasket ended up leaking right away. So I purchased a 3/16” thick 12” x 12” cork tile from Hobby Lobby for around $5.00. I Made my own valve cover gasket. No more oil leaks. The original valve cover gasket is around 1/16” thick. When torquing to specifications the gasket split of course on the bottom. I even tried to use high temperature silicone the black kind. Waited for it to lightly set. Lightly tightened the valve cover bolts. So not to squeeze the silicone. After 24 hours tightened the valve cover bolts just enough not to over squeeze the black silicone. It leaked oil right away. What a mess and a pain in the ass removing all the cured black silicone. It is very easy to make your own valve cover gasket. Except for where the new valve cover gasket split apart. It was still in good enough shape to trace it out on the 3/16” cork tile. Definitely use a gasket punch for the valve cover bolt holes. I used a new straight edge razor to cut out the rest of the valve cover gasket after I punched the holes using a gasket hole punch set. I you cut out the gasket and then punch out the bolt holes. There is a chance you will split the cork. I tightened the home made valve cover gasket to 65 inch pounds. According to bolt tightening pattern. I also made 3 more valve cover gaskets from the leftover cork. Why Kohler didn’t use oil resistant neoprene rubber to manufacture the valve cover gasket or a thicker cork gasket. Is beyond reasoning to me. If the cork panel I purchased didn’t work out. My next purchase was going to be a 12”x12” x 1/8” thick piece of oil resistant neoprene rubber. To make a new valve cover gasket.
Great video. I don't think it's worth going to the extra cost of synthetic. Regular maintenance and oil changes is always worthwhile.
Oil this oil that just keep CLEAN OIL in anything. When it turns black that's fine carbon molecules ( just like sand just harder) the type or brand don't even matter just keep it brown or brownish) 98 silverado 350 325k miles stile had hone marks in cylinder walls. 3,500 miles oil changes when that motor started turning oil black.
Do what the manufacturer recommends.
synthetic 10w30 for small engines
I have a 20 horse Kohler on my lawn tractor. Bought 1999 and used synthetic only and still going strong today.
Love reading my manuals and getting to know your vehicle or machine as much as you can, I’ll surprise people with my knowledge on certain machines. Vehicles that have 7500 mile oil interval changes are only for vehicle that never see a stop light and are on freeway but if you stop to get grocery’s divide oil interval by half, it says it right in the manual but people don’t do it and sludge there engines up
.
He's right. But not all synthetic oils are the same. Castrol Edge is good (lots of rinse, lots of cleaner) or Valvoline R+P, (slooooooow clever GDI clean.) Both are good.
Type — Santa Fe Sport oil burning fix — and look at the maintenance section.
In the 1970s older men told me to use penzoil detergent oil in engines with high mileage and quaker state in new engines. Total BS every engine I put that trash it blew up. Burnt up or plugged oil ports .those two oils are poison to any engine. Mobil and Castrol are top notch.
Kohler doesnt produce::
Their own oil.
Their own oil filters
Their own fuel filters
Their own air filters
Their own carburetors
Their own magnetos
100% synthetic > "full synthetic"
I dont have a problem with synthetic oil. However just to share i had a klr650 motorcycle bought new. I started tresting it to full synthetic oil. I noticed it was using oil…went to w local trusted bokeechsnic he said jist use belray thumper mineral oil. It stopped using oil. Was alot cheaper as an addrd bonus. Just sharing.