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It’s been a while since I popped in to see the Lady at the AD, so I reached out with a message essentially saying – I miss you. And, the universe repaid my weakness with more nonsense. I mean, serendipitously, I had contacted her in time to make an appointment for the Patek Philippe Exhibition. I had no idea. Who says there are no Gods. This kind of exhibition is where they send out a bunch of watches (real but with a component missing) and we get to ogle them and wear them. Let’s take a look at some of these beautiful bastards. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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So beautiful they are. And wear them I did. I got to try on 10 or so Patek Philippe watches. That’s insane isn’t it. I’m balling in the Patek ballpark these days. Hans Wilsdorf who, Rolex what. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Patek Phillipe is quite new to me. A while ago I visited the Patek museum in Geneva but other than that, and the Nautilus being famous, I know nothing. It was the same with Rolex until the fated day that Lady at the AD introduced me. I wasn’t that interested prior. Damn her. She’s great at her job. Let’s gooooo!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
NAUTILUS 5811\/1G-001 <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n
STEEL | 41MM | DATE | SWEEP SECONDS.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n\n
Let’s start with a big boy. The one and only, the king of sports watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811\/1G-001. It was designed by G\u00e9rald Genta in 1976, scribbled on a napkin apparently, that scribble has been in charge of steel luxury sports watches ever since – inspired by transatlantic ship portholes apparently. Now you know. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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I wasn\u2019t sure what to expect, I\u2019ve seen them everywhere apart from in the metal. Adorning the wrists of many a sportsman and celebrity. How was it? I hear you ask. It didn\u2019t disappoint, that’s for god damn sure. It\u2019s beautifully crafted and it\u2019s a joy on the wrist, if a touch big for me. It\u2019s very well balanced and reassuringly heavy. I really liked it, but it wasn\u2019t the best Patek I tried on. And it’s steel, I would only buy this to resell at the ridiculous mark-up. I want Goooold. I do have a problem with very expensive watches that are not complicated or made from gold or platinum in some form. I’m changing, I’m becoming more of a douche-bag…must fight it…<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Retail<\/span><\/strong>: \u00a366,210 \/ $82,021<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Pre-owned<\/span><\/strong>: \u00a3130,000+ \/ $175,000+<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
AQUANAUT 5968G-001<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<\/p>\n
WHITE GOLD | 42.2 MM | FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH | <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<\/p>\n\n
The next on the list and the wrist is an Aquanaut, a more substantial piece with a nice dial layout. It\u2019s the Flyback Chronograph 5968G-001. That’s because it’s a chronograph that flies back, let me explain. Usually, the top button is start\/stop, and the bottom is reset. With a flyback if you press the reset when the chronograph is in motion it will automatically go back to the start and keep running. Quite cool, and possibly useful for some people.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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I think the rather large small seconds subdial brings something else interesting to the dial. Especially as I have issues with the hour and minute markers on Aquanauts, they are toned down here and milliseconds are added for the chrono which looks great I think (you’ll see alts below). The flyback chronograph adds a taste of that complicated internal life that some Pateks live. I also like that no hour numerals have been cut off (at 5 and 7). It is quite thick (11.9 mm) and big, but it works. Still, that classic case shape and that strap isn\u2019t doing it for me – for the record the Aquanaut was not designed by Gerald Genta. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Retail: <\/span><\/strong>\u00a371,760 \/ $88,898<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Pre-owned: <\/span><\/strong>\u00a397,000+ \/ $130,000+<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
CALATRAVA \u00a05212A-001<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<\/p>\n
STEEL | 40MM | WEEKLY CALENDAR<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<\/p>\n\n
Now this one is special. We are going extreme close-up for this one. The beautifully delicate script looks like it\u2019s hand-written, which is the idea, as it’s taken from the designers sketch directly and not tidied up too much. A very cool idea. There is a lot going on here, but it’s not over the top. It has two pointer dates, one for <\/span>day of the week<\/span><\/strong> and another for the <\/span>week of the year. <\/span><\/strong>The dial is busy, but the font, thoughtful composition\/design and thin lines give a graphic type aesthetic that I absolutely love, it\u2019s one of my faves from the day. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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Saying that, I\u2019d never heard of it or seen it before, which is the right way to be introduced to some pieces, maxiumum impact. It\u2019s quite different to the Pateks that are common on the socials and the interwebs..What it does have in common with those pieces is that it’s steel. What it doesn’t have in common is that it sells way under retail. Bargain, I’ll take two (unintentional Grand Theft Auto VI reference – oooooweeee).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Retail:<\/span><\/strong> \u00a334,820 \/ $43,136<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Pre-owned:<\/span><\/strong> \u00a321,950+ \/ $29,000+<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
AQUANAUT 5167R-001<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n
ROSE GOLD | 40MM | DATE | SWEEP SECONDS.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n\n
This is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001 Date, sweep seconds. It’s the standard configuration with a precious metal twist. I never really took to the Aquanaut, I never liked the shape. And, it didn’t disappoint, it was predictably underwhelming.\u00a0Yes, it\u2019s a classic sports watch, yes it looks great on me, but it\u2019s a bit dull. And I don’t like the rubber strap. Just imagine buying this watch in steel with a rubber strap, \u00a310k for a Submariner is bad enough. But \u00a322k for one of these in steel is insane – says the guy with 40 watches, and at least \u00a320ks worth of steel watches. Unless you resell obvs.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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I hadn’t tried on any rose gold watches prior to this day, but I must say that I like the look. It suits me very much, if I do say say myself – the Lady at the AD agreed! Of course she did. I don’t love the dial style\/layout, the minute and hour markers\/track are too big. It feels a bit tight along the edge. This can be forgiven when when the dial gets other design feature and complications, nice segue… <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Retail: <\/span><\/strong>\u00a343,200 \/ $53,514<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Pre-owned: <\/span><\/strong>\u00a370,000+ \/ $94,000+<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
AQUANAUT 5261R-001<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n
ROSE GOLD | 39.9MM | ANNUAL CALENDAR | MOON PHASES<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n\n
Sticking with the rose gold and the requested complications to make that Aquanaut dial a bit more interesting, we have the 5261R. The rose gold still works for me, the gold accents on the subdial and hours play off each other and the case really nicely. The dial colour is really nice, opaline blue-grey and contrasts well with the rose gold. Noice.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
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I think the large marker track around the dial could be reduced in depth, and everything would work better but it’s the trademark design of the Aquanaut so what can I do. The additional subdials add variation and it mostly works well. They removed the 6 o’clock marker for the date but then the 12 is cut off which I don\u2019t like. A logo at 12 is always a winner – should have gone small logo above the moonphase. I’m not super Patek literate but I can’t recall seeing a logo at twelve. Always on the crown and buckle, but not on the dial. Interesting. This watch overall though is my fave of the Aquanauts I saw.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Retail: <\/span><\/strong>\u00a358,440 \/ $72,394<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n
Pre-owned:<\/span><\/strong> \u00a3126,000+ \/ $170,000+<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n
CALATRAVA 6196P-001<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h4>\n<\/p>\n