{"id":89836,"date":"2025-02-15T14:30:10","date_gmt":"2025-02-15T14:30:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/som2nypost.com\/agriculture\/biodynamic-farms-are-one-thing-what-about-biodynamic-businesses\/"},"modified":"2025-02-15T14:30:10","modified_gmt":"2025-02-15T14:30:10","slug":"biodynamic-farms-are-one-thing-what-about-biodynamic-businesses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/som2nypost.com\/?p=89836","title":{"rendered":"Biodynamic Farms Are One Thing. What About Biodynamic Businesses?"},"content":{"rendered":"


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For decades after the concept of biodynamic farming was introduced in 1924, there was an aura of witch and wizard mysticism and charmingly earnest cluelessness around biodynamic farming. You want to make planting and harvesting choices according to the moon? Stuff yarrow into a deer bladder<\/a> to create a tea that you\u2019ll spritz on your crops? Um, okaaaay. <\/i>You do you.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Photography submitted by Gerard Bertrand.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

But over the past 25 years, peer-reviewed scientific studies show that biodynamic farming enhances soil quality and biodiversity<\/a>. It also produces more nutritious<\/a> produce and wine that tastes better<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n

With that in mind, the era of downplaying the merits of biodynamic farming is officially over. Today, biodynamic farmers on the cutting edge are taking the philosophy and science that has served them so well on their farms and applying it to their business practices.<\/p>\n

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Mystic liver: inside the world of biodynamic farming.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Biodynamic farming 101<\/b><\/p>\n

Still not sure what we mean when we say biodynamic farming<\/a>? You\u2019re not alone. Biodynamics is based on the work of philosopher and scientist Dr. Rudolf Steiner <\/a>(1861-1925). It is, at its simplest level, a method of chemical-free organic farming that entails the observation of lunar phases, planetary cycles and requires the use of locally sourced materials for fertilization and soil conditioning.<\/p>\n

Practitioners see the farm as a closed, biodiverse ecosystem that requires internal inputs\u2014which can come from the manure of ruminants raised on the farm, or from teas made from plants grown and animal products present on the farm\u2014to nourish and feed itself.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Chamomile. Photography by David Fritz Goeppinger.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

There are two primary forms of biodynamic certification, through Demeter-USA<\/a> and Demeter International<\/a>. It is estimated that there are around 6,000 certified biodynamic farms in operation across the world, and many more who farm biodynamically without certification. (The cost of getting certified varies<\/a> depending on the farm\u2019s size, but is generally at least a few thousand dollars, and requires adherence to a complex set of rules and standards).\u00a0<\/p>\n

Now, a new crop of producers are taking these same concepts and applying them to their businesses as a whole. Is the certified biodynamic coffee you\u2019re drinking truly biodynamic if the coffee pods were dried on a conventionally produced table? These are the kind of questions the truly hardcore are asking.<\/p>\n

Deeply considering every element that touches products<\/b><\/p>\n

G\u00e9rard Bertrand, who owns and operates 16 certified biodynamic wine estates<\/a> in Languedoc and Roussillon, France, has been infusing business decisions with biodynamic ideas for decades.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Gerard Bertrand. Photography by David Fritz Goeppinger.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

At the Minervois winery Clos d\u2019Ora, the layout was designed so that sunlight hits a precise place in the barrel cellar during each solstice. And at Languedoc\u2019s Clos du Temple, architect Francois Fontes designed the space to link sky and earth. Glass panels bring sunshine into the winery through the ceiling, while a mashrabiya (a latticework window that is characteristic of Islamic architecture) cools the heat the sun brings and casts patterns of light and shadow.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cThe sun, the star that anchors our system and shines bright for much of the year in this region, shapes our construction projects,\u201d Bertrand explains.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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A room linking earth and sky at the Clos du Temple. Photography submitted by Gerard Bertrand.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

At his wine resort Chateau L\u2019Hospitalet<\/a>, Bertrand created a The Moon Room devoted to biodynamically rooted tastings.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cIts light fixtures mimic celestial bodies, their glow, colors, and rhythms attuned to the dishes and wines served,\u201d Bertrand explains. \u201cShort narratives weave through the meal, inviting guests to sense the rhythms that guide our biodynamic work. This is more than a meal\u2014it is a multisensory journey, an education, and a fresh way of looking at the heavens.\u201d<\/p>\n

Robert Eden, co-owner and winemaker at Chateau Maris<\/a>, also built his winery in Languedoc based on the biodynamic approach.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cOur cellar and winery is constructed from hemp bricks and wood to create a plant-based space that can receive external energies,\u201d Eden explains. \u201cBuilt this way, our winery\u2019s operation is not impaired, and the energy is not repelled by artificial metals and other materials.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Clos du Temple. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

The placement and construction of the building was also considered with the movement of groundwater and alignment to prevailing winds.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Other vintners, like Count Michael Goess-Enzenberg, owner of Weingut Manincor i<\/a>n Alto Adige, Italy, embraces a holistic approach to biodynamic farming and business-building.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe get everything possible from organic or biodynamic sources,\u201d Goess-Enzenberg says. \u201cOak for our barriques, which we use to age our wines, comes from our own forest. Straw and manure for our compost comes from local farms in our neighborhood, which we mix with remains from grapes after they\u2019ve been pressed.\u201d<\/p>\n

The quartz used for the biodynamic preparation 501<\/a> (a spray used to promote grape strength and health) is sourced from their local mountains. Goess-Enzenberg likens biodynamics to a broad lifestyle that requires wholesale commitment.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cIt brings our lives into balance,\u201d he says.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Chat de Malherbe. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

At Cullen Wines<\/a> in Margaret River, Australia, winemaker and managing director Vanya Cullen has created a biodynamic bubble around her entire operation. In addition to farming her vineyards biodynamically, Cullen has a biodynamic produce garden that feeds the on-site restaurant.<\/p>\n

Cullen also sources barrels sourced on fruit or flower days, according to the biodynamic calendar. (In the biodynamic farming calendar<\/a> commonly followed by practitioners, fruit days occur when the moon is in a fire sign\u2014Aries, Leo or Sagittarius; flower days occur when the moon is in an air sign\u2014Gemini, Libra or Aquarius; root days occur when the moon is in the earth sign\u2014Capricorn, Taurus or Virgo; leaf days occur when the moon is in a water sign\u2014Caner, Scorpio or Pisces).\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cWe were amazed at the difference between wine made in barrels harvested on fruit and flower days,\u201d Cullen says. \u201cWine aged in barrels harvested on fruit days are bigger and more expressive. Flower day barrels impart minerality and structure. Overall, we find that wines made with biodynamic barrels as a whole taste more complete.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cullen has worked with her coopers to hone the barrel program even further, prioritizing wood harvested on a new moon descending.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Beth Hoinacki. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

Applying holistic biodynamic ideas to staff management<\/b><\/p>\n

Beth Hoinacki, owner and operator of Goodfoot Farm<\/a> in Oregon\u2019s Willamette Valley says that her work for the International Organic Inspectors Association made her realize that biodynamic operations often unconsciously extended their practices well beyond the farming itself. She became determined to conscientiously do so on her own vegetable and fruit farm.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cI inspected organic and biodynamic farms, and I was always struck by the staff at biodynamic farms,\u201d Hoinacki says. \u201cFrom the people who are there working in the fields every day to the owners, there was clearly this beautiful dedication to what was happening, and the story they were telling about the universe and our interconnection through the food they were growing.\u201d<\/p>\n

There is something about the practice of growing food biodynamically by the rhythm of the planets, moon, sun and stars that seems to engage the minds and hearts of the people involved, Hoinacki notes.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Beth Hoinacki at the farmer\u2019s market. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

\u201cI intuitively knew that traditional labor structures on farms were not healthy, so when I began hiring people, I began doing so through the lens of biodynamics with the goal of expressing the character of the farm as it exists,\u201d she says.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Instead of the traditional power and management structure of owner and employee, she gives her employees the power to collectively agree on hours, start times and breaks. Her decision rooted power on the farm, without allowing inputs from the outside world.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cIt is a system that feeds itself,\u201d Hoinacki notes. \u201cI work with them on the farm because I find working the land rewarding, so we get to make decisions together. Our team members love the system.\u201d<\/p>\n

On the other hand\u2026\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

Inevitably, there are many who are less than convinced of the merits of biodynamically minded business decisions.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Clos du Temple. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

Wendy Parr, a wine scientist and oenologist at Lincoln University in New Zealand was among the researchers who wrote \u201cExpectation or Sensorial Reality? An Empirical Investigation of the Biodynamic Calendar for Wine Drinkers<\/a>,\u201d published in the peer-reviewed Public Library of Science mega journal PLOS ONE. In the study, 19 wine pros were asked to taste 12 different Pinot Noirs on fruit and root days. Bottom line: they found the day made no difference.<\/p>\n

\u201cTo date, there is no clear evidence that the calendar affects tasting,\u201d Parr says. \u201cWe know from neuroscientists\u2019 work that no two people ever experience a wine in precisely the same way because there are a myriad of neuro-physical and psychological variables that could be involved.\u201d<\/p>\n

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What is permaculture, exactly?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Parr adds that there is \u201canecdotal evidence\u201d that wines can show changes across fruit or root days.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Chat de Malherbe. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve met winemakers in Europe and New Zealand who wouldn\u2019t rack off wine on a root or leaf day,\u201d she says. \u201cIt is not for me to say what others should believe or practise. I will add that we did one study only. In the absence of further research, the issue remains unclear.\u201d<\/p>\n

The jury appears to be out on whether or not tasting on a fruit or root day will drastically alter your assessment of a wine. But even a few decades ago, the notion that biodynamic farming could improve soil health was unproven and widely ridiculed.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Tasting special wines, planning farm and winery constructions and basing staff decisions on a biodynamic calendar and philosophy may seem slightly out there\u2014but if it helps vintners and farmers create better products and teams, who are we to argue?\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For decades after the concept of biodynamic farming was introduced in 1924, there was an aura of witch and wizard mysticism and charmingly earnest cluelessness around biodynamic farming. You want to make planting and harvesting choices according to the moon? Stuff yarrow into a deer bladder to create a tea that you\u2019ll spritz on your […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":89837,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12026],"tags":[14528,27067,907,11170,43581,13548,23292],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-89836","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-agriculture","tag-biodiversity","tag-biodynamic","tag-business","tag-businesses","tag-culture-heritage","tag-farms","tag-food-drink"],"yoast_head":"\nBiodynamic Farms Are One Thing. 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